All is not as it seems here. This is a land of illusion; the light plays tricks on the eyes, and the air is alive with the absence of sound. I’m seeing Svalbard from different viewpoints as we sail back into the fjord and our home port of Longyearbyen. They're conflicting. No one comes from Svalbard.

There was no ancient civilisation here. There is no indigenous population either, even the Inuits and Vikings steered clear. Individuals in Svalbard were and are transitory. Pyramiden is a ghost town, trappers have gone, whalers and miners still come and go but to a lesser degree. Today's settlements exist mostly for geological exploration and research or to maintain a political presence. Tourists will come and go. No one is born on Svalbard, women travel to Tromsø on the Norwegian mainland to have their babies. No one will have Svalbard written on their birth certificate. No one comes from Svalbard.

But everyone relates to their environment in some shape or form and if a human landscape is a map latticed with habits and rituals created over time, how then is empty wilderness mapped out? Architecture and man-made structures can serve as time-lines we can relate to, but geology with its greater timescale and slower  evolution doesn’t give away too many secrets. Traces of past human settlements in Svalbard are time-locked; whalers and trappers huts preserved by the dry Arctic air look much the same now as when they were constructed long ago. In the absence of physical markers there is no time-line, and memories survive only as echoes and shadows. 

Longyearbyen, the largest settlement on Svalbard is now populated mostly by university workers, replacing the coal mining community of the past. It's a purposeful and functional town, physically it’s like an engineering project in progress.The permafrost dictates how buildings can be sited and constructed; pipes are lagged above ground creating a big linear network, the bare bones of a settlement exposed. The coal fired power station with its permanent smoking chimney is there for the town alone, the sole source of energy. Communication masts, weather stations and scientific instruments lie alongside the disused mining structures. Visually, none of this looks unusual in the landscape; they fit in with the stark, uncompromising nature of it all. But it was thought a good idea to introduce non-Arctic colour to the university housing, so a Norwegian artist was brought in to choose the warm ochres for the houses. A huddle of earth amidst the ice and snow. A time-line in progress?

Longyearbyen now is full of contradictions. For all the hype about protecting the environment and the polar bears, coal is burned for energy, and raw sewage is pumped straight through the middle of the town into the fjord. If you want to sail north from Europe and take some whales back with you, well that seems to be ok too. One law for the land, one for the sea, none for the atmosphere. Or might protection of the waters potentially inhibit exploration for oil, if and when the ice cap melts? Already oil companies are set up around the Arctic waiting for that time. It’s not unreasonable to suggest that politics is the driving force here. 

This is a fascinating and unique place in all respects. It's also incredibly beautiful in an extreme and barren sort of way. But there is a need for people to somehow connect with and value this unique environment for what it is and not to solely exploit it for what it's got. Although it's far away from most of us and difficult to relate to, ordinary people just like us live, love and work there - it's not so different in many respects. It's also very much part of us ecologically. What happens here environmentally will effect us all - we can't escape that. It's not only the polar bears who are at stake.

It's time to leave. I wish I could stay and experience the full cycle of Dark Time and the eventual return of the sun in the Spring. Feeling very privileged, I smile, take one last look at the magical lingering light then tuck it inside me to bring out and savour later.